In “June: Circle K Recipes,” incorporating a food,
particularly rice, into one’s interiors is a way of consuming value: “Everything
is measured against it. Legal tender…The
gold standard was abolished years ago, but not the rice standard” (Yamashita
83). If “[e]verything is measured
against it,” then people certainly are, both in what they eat, how they eat it,
and in what ways they are consumed as commodities by others. “One eats the purity of it,” and one should
be “mattaku Japanese” to have that honor, to digest that “purity.” As for “the long-grain rice of Thailand,”
which is “cheap,” “just a food sample from a poor country,” perhaps even
tainted by insect parts, it’s not “legal tender,” in part because: “Who’s
eating it now? Probably the Brazilians”
(Yamashita 82). Whether insulated from insect
parts or human parts, the standard for “[l]egal tender” must be “purity.” Gold is irrelevant; what and who is eaten,
imagined, and fucked must be narrated, must be contained, must be reiterated.
In other words, narrative is essential to “[l]egal
tender,” and narrative must be “tender,” of value, soft, “sticky,” and
comfortingly streamlined. It must use
tropes that cohere, that are “sticky” and juicy. Miss Hamamatsu has to love novelas and movies,
she’s got to be mestiça, and those novelas and movies have to provide
narratives for her family history in “What if Miss Nikkei Were God(dess)?”: “She
felt it was her story, too, the story of her Italian side. Imagine” (Yamashita 23), “A romantic story
based on our history” (Yamashita 24), “she could become the Queen of Beef” (Yamashita
26). The invocation of imagination is a
command, out to the reader and to herself, but readers have only their
imaginations to project onto whatever narrative she “imagines.” Alluding to a genre that uses tropes, the
narrator calls attention to the packaging of “her story,” “the story of her
Italian side,” “a romantic story based on our history,” and “Queen of Beef” as
tasty narratives that are easy to swallow, ways of swallowing Miss Hamamatsu as
beef, as the body parts by which she is characterized. You want to consume her, you have to consume
her narrative, but it was never really hers, was it? “She would be the Japanese mestiça Patricia
Pillar, the righteous and beautiful Luana” (Yamashita 27). The premise is that this is already not her
story: “She would be” someone else; “would” is quite distinct from “is.” Her value is premised on narrative value, so
that narratives tropes have to “sell,” as novela plots, as body parts, as beef.
“Zero Zero One-derful” brings selling ads, “my
story,” and “Me naked” syntactically close: “Alice, I’ve already sold several
pages of ads today. But, back to my
story. Me naked running around crazy. No escape” (Yamashita 74). There’s “[n]o escape” from the idea of
narrative; it always has to circle back to “my story.” Through implicit thought progression (i.e.
phone conversation), several tangents come together as if conceptually invoking
one another: selling, stories, and nudity.
Feel free to remove the commas. While
this phone conversation plays with the interplay between large categories and “I,”
what’s narrated is narrative structure, rather than the tropes themselves,
which frequent the page. “In this
underworld inside Japan, I learned to live Japanese,” comments the voice that
tells Alice about “the Brazilians” and “the Japanese,” accentuating the idea of
generalization (Yamashita 77). Describing
Japan as “what you don’t see and what you see,” she invokes what both in “this underworld
inside Japan”: the term “underworld” is campy, as is the insinuation that
something is “inside” or hidden within. Think
of a trope, any trope, all the movies you’ve seen. That’s not it, but it is. “It’s what you don’t see and what you see.” It’s the lurid fascination with something
imagined that you don’t see, with something unimaginable, with the possibility
that all those tropes are true. And she
would know; she “learned to live Japanese.”
She’s not like all those other Brazilians who never get the hang of
it. “He thinks that what he sees is the
thing itself,” perhaps a little like readers outside of the memoir’s context (Yamashita
77). Mistake the trope for realism,
mistake realism for a trope, think that they can’t be both, realize that you’re
“like a fish swimming in a school of surfaces” (Yamashita 77). Just remember, she never said that she was
Japanese or Brazilian; she says that she “learned to live Japanese” and calls
herself “I.” On the other hand, her
dialogue sells ad space to Alice through a series of “bootstraps” tropes that de-individualize
and commodify her story: she came naked (Don’t you desire her), she made it
(she’s exceptional but proof that you just have to work hard), and she’s ready
to share that salability with Alice (ad space).
It goes without saying that it’s circular. Maybe the narrative has a truth, that truth
is attainable, and that truth has value, but the trope is worth just as much: “Everything
has a true inside and a front that covers it” (Yamashita 77). After all, mestiça exoticism hinges on a
narrative of impurity, of “red red lipstick,” of “something pink and very
transparent,” of a transparent trope, of another imagined narrative, “Me naked”
and selling stories (Yamashita 72). Watch
out for that non-Japanese rice; you might enjoy it, and it might remind you of
everything else that you eat, but don’t you enjoy the privilege and the danger
of extending what has value? “My desire
reaches into his pants, and he thinks about nothing but sex and money. If he could have me, it’s true, he could have
the world: honne/tatemae: Now you see me, now you don’t” (Yamashita 80). Surface is visible; what’s under is elusive: “Now
you see me, now you don’t.” That’s part
of the allure, and part of the deception of tropes. They promise a truth (“it’s true, he could
have the world”) that may not be there (“now you don’t”) and bank on an
essentialism that is usually racist, misogynistic, xenophobic, and much, much
more.
Rice ends up in many
bellies, although “cheap” Thai rice is distinguished from Japanese rice in part
through who consumes it, or who consumes it according to the trope that Brazilians
eat what “mattaku Japanese” can afford not to, probably in part economic
reality and in part a circular nationalist-xenophobic idea about impure food
belonging in impure bodies and about the mutual exposure to impurity
reinforcing already essential impurity. Invoking
tropes (“It’s a Creole thing”), the text destabilizes notions of purity: “Everybody
is making okazu. Everybody is making
mistura” (Yamashita 85, 86). The
parallel structures in the two sentences about “[e]verybody” emphasize sameness
as they invoke tropes about difference and hybridity. It's notable because of xenophobic tropes around "purity" that "[e]verybody" is eating Japanese, Brazilian, and Japanese-Brazilian food. “It’s a Creole thing” is a dismissive phrase that embodies a refusal to elaborate on anything categorized (Oh, it's a "Creole thing," case closed),
but the dismissal is dismissed when “[e]verybody” is eating what is, according
to trope, food only eaten by some. The
trope doesn’t account for what’s happening: people are eating food that is
Japanese, Brazilian, Japanese-Brazilian, and made by anyone. “I heard some Brazilian women have used the
rice cooker to bake cakes. Nothing is
sacred. Your tradition is someone else’s
originality” (Yamashita 86). This is emphatically
hearsay (“I heard”), it perpetuates anonymity within generalized
categories (“some Brazilian women”), and it invokes purity (“sacred”). Perhaps it uses the structure of a trope to parody
those tropes: the possibility of purity in the xenophobic sense (of bodies and
of food) and the commodification of tropes (in the same discussion of marketing
food). By calling attention to the tropes that structure narratives, Circle K Cycles questions how much a narrative exposes, contests, or perpetuates.
(I'm assuming that the text uses irony, but given the power vested in these kinds of tropes, I find the text's specific characterization of mestiça women as conniving, manipulative, etc. disturbing. Yes, there is a purpose in telling readers what they want to hear for the sake of exposing the problematic implications of what they want to hear, but it would have been nice to meet people that didn't seem like plot devices. Yes, I realize that the text addresses navigating economic marginalization, including on the part of the author and her family, but her position in what she writes is obfuscated. This makes it an interesting read, and it also makes me wonder what everyone else thought of it).
Jenny,
ReplyDeletethis made me fly! It's interesting that we can't get away from the currencies of cultural although we find them almost patronizingly annoying. You say It’s what you don’t see and what you see.” It’s the lurid fascination with something imagined that you don’t see, with something unimaginable, with the possibility that all those tropes are true.--which is also the position of the narrator. She is in it, observes it, but also we get from the soccer chapter, is sitting in the circle K creating it. So the tropes are the sign posts, directing the story or infesting it.
Nice,
e